Current Issue : July-September Volume : 2026 Issue Number : 3 Articles : 5 Articles
Naturally derived cosmetic enzymes from food-grade plant sources are increasingly sought after as sustainable and skin-compatible alternatives to conventional exfoliating agents; however, many existing plant proteases exhibit poor thermal stability, limiting their practical use in cosmetic formulations. In this study, a thermostable keratinolytic protease extracted from Momordica charantia (bitter melon), a widely consumed edible and medicinal plant, was characterized to overcome these limitations and evaluated for its cosmetic applicability. The enzyme demonstrated strong keratin-degrading activity and retained over 80% of its activity at 70 ◦C, indicating superior thermal stability compared with commonly used cosmetic enzymes. In vitro assays using RAW264.7 murine macrophages confirmed low cytotoxicity and revealed significant inhibition of lipopolysaccharide-induced nitric oxide production, along with moderate elastase inhibitory activity, suggesting additional skin-beneficial properties. To assess practical exfoliating efficacy and skin compatibility, a four-week in-use test was conducted with 11 healthy adult volunteers using a formulation containing the M. charantia-derived enzyme. Significant reductions in desquamation index and improvements in skin smoothness (SEsm), measured using a Visioscan® VC20 Plus, and hydration, assessed with a Corneometer® CM825, were observed (p < 0.001), with no adverse effects reported. Collectively, these findings indicate that this naturally sourced, plant-derived keratinase offers a thermally stable and effective enzymatic exfoliation strategy, supporting its potential use as a sustainable cosmetic bioactive ingredient....
Essential oils are widely used in cosmetic products and are valued for their antimicrobial properties. In this study, the in vitro antimicrobial activity of five pure essential oils (EOs) and five commercially available EO blends was comparatively evaluated against six skin-associated pathogens: Staphylococcus aureus, Streptococcus pyogenes, Escherichia coli, Pseudomonas aeruginosa, Candida lusitaniae and Candida guilliermondii. Chemical profiling of volatile constituents was performed using gas chromatography–mass spectrometry; antimicrobial activity was assessed by broth microdilution to determine minimum inhibitory concentration (MIC), as well as spot-inoculation to determine minimum bactericidal concentration (MBC). Results revealed microorganism-dependent inhibitory and bactericidal activity of the tested essential oils. Candida spp. and E. coli were the most susceptible microorganisms, whereas P. aeruginosa exhibited the lowest susceptibility to essential oils. Pinus sylvestris showed comparatively lower MIC and MBC values across most tested microorganisms. Commercial EO blends showed comparable antimicrobial activity to individual essential oils. Overall, this study provides a comparative in vitro screening of selected essential oils and commercial blends relevant to cosmetic applications, indicating that EO blends do not exhibit superior antimicrobial activity over pure oils under the tested conditions....
Acne vulgaris remains a common condition, with current topical therapies often limited by suboptimal efficacy and tolerability. This study evaluated the efficacy and safety of two novel 1% hydrogen peroxide (H2O2) formulations, a cream-gel for facial and a sprayable lotion for truncal mild-to-moderate acne. 42 participants presenting facial acne and 41 with truncal acne were treated twice daily for 8 weeks. Efficacy was assessed using the Investigator’s Global Assessment (IGA), the Spanish Acne Severity Scale (EGAE), and lesion counts. After 56 days, facial acne severity improved significantly (IGA −26%, p = 0.01; EGAE −31%, p = 0.01), with reductions in papules (−45%, p = 0.017), porphyrin count (−27%, p = 0.04), sebum production (−75%, p = 0.005), erythema (−35%, p = 0.0001), and desquamation (−22%, p = 0.02). Truncal acne severity also improved significantly (IGA −32%, p = 0.001; EGAE −45%, p = 0.001), with reductions in inflammatory lesions (−60%, p = 0.001), porphyrin size and count (−55% and −48%, both p = 0.001), erythema (−7%, p = 0.005), and desquamation (−27%, p = 0.001). Both formulations were accepted by the users, with minimal local irritation and high patient satisfaction. Topical 1% H2O2 formulations demonstrated significant and well-tolerated efficacy in both facial and truncal acne, supporting their potential as safe and patient-friendly options for managing mild-tomoderate acne....
Background: There is increasing interest in cosmeceuticals—cosmetic regimes incorporating a specific probiotic or postbiotic strain, fully characterized genetically and phenotypically—which, when topically applied, have the ability to modulate the skin microbiome, exhibit anti-inflammatory properties and improve the overall skin appearance by reducing signs of aging. In addition, claims have been made that emotional and psychological well-being can be improved by neuroactive substances released by the probiotics in cosmeceuticals, acting via the skin–brain axis. However, claims are somewhat generalized and imprecise, and we deemed it important to look more precisely at published research relating to cosmeceuticals. There have been very few research publications on these products, identified as neurocosmetics, and they immediately provoked strong reactions from dermatologists and psychiatrists, mainly with regard to the ethical and safety aspects of their use. Objectives/Method: The present strain-centered literature evaluation aimed to select from peer-reviewed publications referring to cosmeceuticals only those dealing with fully characterized, specific probiotic strains with documented beneficial skin properties. Eligible strains found were subsequently subjected to a secondary search to ascertain whether they also demonstrated clinical, or even experimental, evidence of strain-specific psychobiotic properties. Results: From 33 strain-specific cosmeceuticals identified, only three strains—Lactococcus lactis subsp. cremoris H61, Limosilactobacillus reuteri DSM 17938, and Weizmannia coagulans MTCC 5856—demonstrated reproducible evidence of psychobiotic potential. Conclusions: Current evidence does not support the notion that cosmeceuticals are likely to directly modulate emotional states through topical application, since the coexistence of cosmeceutical and psychobiotic properties within the same probiotic strain seems to be both uncommon and highly strain-specific and therefore of little practical, generalized use....
Glycerin is a widely used ingredient in cosmetics due to its cost-effectiveness and safety. While often used to enhance the texture of cosmetics, current research has demonstrated that it improves cutaneous properties such as enhanced skin hydration and moisturization. Due to its widespread use in cosmetics, enhancing the functional capacities of glycerin provides a promising method to improve the effectiveness of numerous cosmetics. Ozonized glycerin has emerged as a novel technology able to enhance glycerin’s effectiveness with reported anti-inflammatory, antibacterial, and antiviral effects. This approach leverages ozone stabilization in glycerin for improved stability and prolonged release to the skin. Clinical application of ozonized glycerin has exhibited lightening of aging spots through promoting skin turnover. The objective of this study was to evaluate the enhanced properties of glycerin when ozonized in terms of skin repair and inflammation. Through topical pretreatment of epidermal 3D wound healing models (13 days) and ex vivo human skin biopsies (4 days), ozonized glycerin was able to improve wound closure, enhance skin barrier and extracellular matrix protein expression, and reduce inflammation. Notably, ozonized glycerin enhanced wound closure by 6.8% compared to glycerin, as well as significantly protecting against LPS-induced elastin degradation (67.7% difference from LPS). These data provide evidence for the use of ozonized glycerin as a new technology to prevent and diminish skin inflammation and improve wound repair....
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