Current Issue : July - September Volume : 2019 Issue Number : 3 Articles : 5 Articles
Sun exposure can affect the skin in various ways leading to short- and long-term\nconsequences. Waxes are often used to optimize the rheological behavior of products and provide\nan even sunscreen film on the skin, which can boost the sun protection factor (SPF) of ultraviolet\n(UV) filters. In this study, a biobased wax, alkenones, sourced from commercially available and\nsustainable microalgae was evaluated as an SPF booster in sunscreens. Thirty-five sunscreens were\nformulated using three waxes and four organic liquid UV filters. Products were tested for pH,\nviscosity, spreadability, stability, as well as in vitro SPF and water resistance. Alkenonesâ?? in vitro SPF\nboosting capacity was similar to beeswax and cetyl alcohol with three â??reef-safeâ? UV filters. None of\nthe waxes used provided significant water resistance, however, using film-former water resistance\ncould be built into the products. A key finding is that alkenones increased the in vitro SPF without\nincreasing apparent viscosity. All products had a skin-compatible pH and they all remained stable at\n25 Degree C for 10 weeks. Overall, the alkenonesâ?? performance was comparable to those of the comparator\nwaxes. Our in vitro results indicate that alkenones offer a sustainable, biobased, non-animal derived\nchoice as an SPF booster for organic sunscreens....
Quercus Suber Bark from Quercus suber L. is a natural, renewable and biodegradable\nbiomaterial with multifunctional proprieties. In this study, we used it as solid particles to stabilize\na Pickering emulsion. The main goal was to produce an optimized topical formulation using\nbiocompatible organic particles as stabilizers of the emulsion instead of the common surfactants,\nwhilst benefiting from Quercus suber L. proprieties. In this work, a Quality by Design (QbD) approach\nwas successfully applied to the production of this emulsion. A screening design was conducted,\nidentifying the critical variables of the formula and process, affecting the critical quality attributes of\nthe emulsion (droplet size distribution). The optimization of the production was made through the\nestablishment of the design space. The stability was also investigated during 30 days, demonstrating\nthat Quercus Suber Bark-stabilized emulsions are stable since the droplet size distribution lowers.\nIn vitro studies were performed to assess antioxidant and antiaging efficacy, which revealed that the\nformulation had indeed antioxidant proprieties. A physicochemical characterization demonstrated\nthat the formulation presents a shear-thinning fluid, ideal for topical administration. The in vivo\ncompatibility study confirmed that the final formulation is not skin irritant, being safe for human\nuse. A sensorial analysis was also performed, using a simple sensory questionnaire, revealing very\npositive results. Thus, the use of Quercus Suber Bark particles as a multifunctional solid ingredient\ncontributed to achieve a stable, effective and innovative Pickering emulsion with a meaningful\nsynergistic protection against oxidative stress....
Melasma is a common hyperpigmentation disorder, characterized by\nlight-to-dark brown patches, usually distributed on sun-exposed areas of the body. The objective of\nthis study was to evaluate the efficacy and tolerability of an oral nutritional supplement containing\nPinus pinaster and Grape seed extract, vitamins and minerals, used concomitantly with a high SPF\nsunscreen in 30 women with mild-to-moderate facial melasma. Methods: Efficacy was assessed by\nmeasurement of the Melasma Area and Severity Index (MASI), instrumental analysis of the lesions\n(Mexameter®, VISIA®)) and Patientâ??s and Physicianâ??s Global Assessment (PGA). Results: The MASI\nscore decreased significantly compared with baseline at days 28, 56, and 84. Mexameter® analysis\nshowed a significant decrease of Delta M (difference in the melanin index between melasma and adjacent\narea). VISIA® results also showed a reduction in the number and areas of UV pigmented spots and\nin the areas of melasma overtime. Both the Patientâ??s and Physicianâ??s Global Assessment showed\nthat the product led to an improvement of the lesions in terms of depigmentation and had positive\ncosmetic features without adverse events. Conclusion: The oral supplement subject of this study\nin combination with high SPF sunscreen was effective and well-tolerated for treatment of mild to\nmoderate facial melasma....
The Chaenomeles sinensis fruit is used as an effective antitussive agent, analgesic, and diuretic\nin traditional Chinese medicine. It has been reported that C. sinensis fruit extracts have antimicrobial\nand anti-inflammatory effects. However, there are very few reports about the effects of C. sinensis\nextracts on skin. In this study, we investigated the effect of C. sinensis extracts on skin aging. The\nresults of in vitro assays showed that whole fruit extracts of C. sinensis had superoxide dismutase\n(SOD)-like activity and inhibited the activity of dermal extracellular matrix proteases: Elastase and\ncollagenase. The inhibitory effect of the whole fruit (containing seeds) extract on elastase activity\nwas higher than that of the sarcocarp (seeds removed) extract. Further, the sarcocarp extract showed\na higher level of SOD-like activity and a greater inhibitory effect on collagenase activity than the\nwhole fruit extract. In particular, among the three activities studied, the sarcocarp extract showed the\nmost significant inhibitory effect on collagenase activity at low concentrations. The polyphenol-rich\nfraction obtained from the sarcocarp showed significant collagenase inhibition. Based on these results,\nwe concluded that phenolic compounds from C. sinensis sarcocarp have the potential to protect\nagainst skin aging through anti-collagenase activity..................
Some vegetable oils have many biological properties, including UV-absorbing capacity.\nTherefore, their use has been suggested to reduce the content of organic UV-filters in sunscreen\nproducts. In this work, we investigated the feasibility of developing oil-based vehicles with a high sun\nprotection factor (SPF) using pomegranate oil (PMG) and shea oil (BPO) in association with different\npercentages of organic UV-filters (octyl- methoxycinnamate, butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane, and\nbemotrizinol). We characterized the spreadability, occlusion factor, pH, and required hydrophilic\nlipophilic balance of the resulting formulations, and did not observe relevant differences due\nto the incorporation of vegetable oils. The in vitro spectrophotometric determinations of SPF\nvalues highlighted that the addition of BPO (1% (w/w)) and PMG (1% (w/w)) resulted in an\nincrease in SPF in comparison with the same formulations that contained only organic UV-filters.\nThe SPF increase was more significant for the formulations that contained lower amounts of organic\nUV-filters. The results of this study supported the hypothesis that including suitable vegetable oils in\nsunscreen formulations could be a promising strategy to design products with a lower content of\norganic UV-filters....
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