Frequency: Quarterly E- ISSN: 0976-7517 P- ISSN: 2229-4228 IBI Factor:3.8 Abstracted/ Indexed in: Ulrich's International Periodical Directory, Google Scholar, SCIRUS, Genamics Journal Seek, PSOAR, getCITED, JOURNAL directory, InfoBase Index, EBSCO Information Services
Quarterly published in print and online "Inventi Impact: Cosmeceuticals" publishes high quality unpublished as well as high impact pre-published research and reviews catering to the needs of researchers and professionals. The journal covers all the areas in the growing field of cosmeceuticals or functional/ active cosmetics. Articles pertaining to following are particularly welcome: materials and ingredient research related to cosmeceuticals; therapeutic options for skin, hair and body care; product formulations; technologies in cosmetic product development; testing of skin and hair products; toxicological studies of cosmetic products; analytical chemistry of essential components involved in cosmeceuticals; biomedicine research on active components; regulatory and ethical issues; facial rejuvenation etc.
Nasco and Bovale grape pomace extracts, alone or in association, were loaded in nanoemulsions tailored for cosmetic application, using Kolliphor®RH40 (kolliphor) as the synthetic surfactant, Olivem®1000 (olivem) as the natural one, and lecithin as the cosurfactant. Pink transparent or milky dispersions, as a function of the used extract and surfactant, were obtained to be used as cosmeceutical serum or milk. The sizes of the nanoemulsion droplets were small (≈77 nm with kolliphor and ≈141 nm with olivem), homogenously dispersed (~0.24 with kolliphor and ~0.16 with olivem), highly negatively charged (≈−43 mV irrespective of the used surfactant) and their stability either on storage or under stressing conditions was affected by the used extract and surfactant. Formulations protected the extracts from the degradation caused by UV exposition, were biocompatible against keratinocytes, protected them against oxidative damages induced using hydrogen peroxide and inhibited the release of nitrite induced in macrophages using the lipopolysaccharide inflammatory stimulus. The overall results underlined the key role played by the composition of the formula to achieve a suitable cosmeceutical for skin care but even for the prevention of premature aging and chronic damages caused by the stressing conditions....
Background: Botulinum toxin A is a commonly used biological medication in the field of facial plastic surgery.\r\nCurrently, there are three distinct formulations of botulinum toxin A, each with their purported benefits and\r\nadvantages. However, there is considerable confusion as to the relative efficacy and side-effects associated with\r\neach formulation. Therefore, the purpose of this paper is to systematically assess published studies and perform a\r\nmeta-analysis to determine if there is a significant advantage of any of the individual formulations.\r\nMethods/design: A systematic literature search was performed for all relevant English language randomized\r\ncontrolled trials using Embase, Cumulative Index to Nursing and Allied Health Literature (CINAHL), MEDLINE, World\r\nHealth Organization (WHO) International Clinical Trials Registry Platform, European Union (EU) Clinical Trials Register,\r\nCochrane Library databases of clinical trials, and ClinicalTrials.gov. Inclusion criteria included any randomized\r\ncontrolled trial (RCT) that assessed the use of botulinum toxin for cosmetic purposes. The included articles were\r\nalso analyzed for bias using the Cochrane Collaboration�s tool for assessing the risk of bias in RCTs.\r\nDiscussion: The results of this review will provide clinicians with an unbiased, high level of evidence of the\r\ncomparative efficacy of individual preparations of botulinum toxin A....
Background: Acne vulgaris is a common disorder affecting 79% - 95% of the adolescent population. The choice of treatment depends on the severity, patients with mild to moderate acne should receive topical therapy such as azelaic acid. Rising antibiotic drug resistance consequent to the widespread use of topical antibiotics is causing concern and effective non-antibiotic treatments are needed. Objective: To compare the efficacy and side effects of topical azelaic acid cream 20% versus active lotion containing triethyl citrate and ethyl linoleate (TCEL) in treatment of mild to moderate acne vulgaris. Patients and Methods: This single, blinded, comparative, therapeutic study was done in the Department of Dermatology-Baghdad Teaching Hospital, Baghdad, Iraq; from May 2013-July 2014. Scoring of acne was carried out and the patients were examined every 2 weeks for 10 weeks of treatment. One month after stopping drugs, patients were evaluated for drug complications and disease recurrence. Sixty patients fulfilling enrollment criteria were included in this study. Patients were divided into 2 groups: Group A (30 patients) treated twice daily with TCEL lotion and Group B (30 patients) treated twice daily with topical azelaic acid cream 20%. Results: Both topical TCEL lotion and azelaic acid cream were statistically an effective therapy for treatment of mild to moderate acne vulgaris. TCEL lotion was more effective and act earlier than azelaic acid cream starting from 4 weeks of therapy till the end of treatment (after 10 weeks) and even after 4 weeks after stopping the treatment (P-value < 0.04). No systemic side effect for both groups was noted while the following side effects were reported; burning, pruritus and erythema, all these side effects disappeared after 8 weeks from starting treatment. After one month of follow up there was no significant relapse in both groups. Conclusion: The TCEL is non-antibiotic based, it had quicker onset of action and observable improvement of both inflammatory and non-inflammatory acne lesions. Its use would reduce the risk of antibiotic resistance developing within the skin flora....
Wound healing after dermal injury is an imperfect\nprocess, inevitably leading to scar formation as the\nskin re-establishes its integrity. The resulting scars have\ndifferent characteristics to normal skin, ranging from fineline\nasymptomatic scars to problematic scarring including\nhypertrophic and keloid scars. Scars appear as a different\ncolour to the surrounding skin and can be flat, stretched,\ndepressed or raised, manifesting a range of symptoms\nincluding inflammation, erythema, dryness and pruritus,\nwhich can result in significant psychosocial impact on\npatients and their quality of life. In this paper, a comprehensive\nliterature review coupled with an analysis of\nlevels of evidence (LOE) for each published treatment\ntype was conducted. Topical treatments identified include\nimiquimod, mitomycin C and plant extracts such as onion\nextract, green tea, Aloe vera, vitamin E and D, applied to\nhealing wounds, mature scar tissue or fibrotic scars following\nrevision surgery, or in combination with other\nmore established treatments such as steroid injections and\nsilicone. In total, 39 articles were included, involving\n1703 patients. There was limited clinical evidence to\nsupport their efficacy; the majority of articles (n = 23)\nwere ranked as category 4 LOE, being of limited quality\nwith individual flaws, including low patient numbers,\npoor randomisation, blinding, and short follow-up periods.\nAs trials were performed in different settings, they were\ndifficult to compare. In conclusion, there is an unmet\nclinical need for effective solutions to skin scarring, more\nrobust long-term randomised trials and a consensus on a\nstandardised treatment regime to address all aspects of\nscarring....
Abstract: Removing head louse eggshells and nits after a successful pediculicide treatment is often\nmade more difficult because it is not easy to see them all amongst the hairs. Therefore, a treatment that\nmakes louse eggs more visible potentially makes the task of removal easier and reduces the risk that\nchildren would be sent home from school or over-treated. This project involved the development of a\nhair treatment gel concept that was easy to apply, wash out, and that stained louse eggs and nits but\nwithout staining the hair and skin. A series of food-grade dyes were evaluated for their ability to stain\nthe eggshells, and various copolymer-based rheology modifiers were tested for dye compatibility\nand stability. Several dyes were rejected because either they failed to stain louse eggshells or else\nstained skin too easily. Two dyes, Patent Blue and Ponceau 4R, were eventually selected for different\nproduct developments, one specifically for post-treatment nit removal and the other for pre-treatment\ndiagnosis. In clinical field studies, both were found to make the treated eggshells contrast sufficiently\nwith the hair to enable identification of persistent nits. Use of a nit stain product can enable easier\ndetection of louse eggs and nits, thus facilitating the removal process and reducing the risk that\npersistent eggshells could be mistaken for signs of a continuing infestation....
A number of approaches can be implemented to ensure plant-based material authentication\nfor cosmetic applications. Doing this requires knowledge and data dealing with botany, molecular\nbiology, and analytical chemistry, the main techniques of which are described here. A comprehensive\nand critical view of the methods is provided with comments as well as examples of their\napplication domains....
Skin lightening and tanning are two major areas dominating the market of skincare\nand cosmetic products. Though the demands are originated from two different\ncommunities, the two areas share a same goalââ?¬â?skin colour tuning. The known safe\ncompounds with skin colour tuning activities are limited. In contrary, Chinese medicinal\nherb provides a pool of natural bioactive compounds, which have been used in\nAsian countries for long time and have been tested for its toxicity. Here, we demonstrate\na high throughput screening platform for potential compounds usable for skin\ncolour tuning. From 147 natural compounds, 26 of them showed potential in skin\ntanning functions by using the high throughput melanogenesis platform based on\nthe melanogenesis assay on B16 melanocytes. Five of them promoted melanogenesis\nby over 50%. Moreover, apart from 1, 8-dihydroxyanthraquinone, the other four\ncompounds showed enhancement effect on tyrosinase activity. From the result, the\ncompounds increased the Vmax of tyrosinase without changing the Km in a dosedependent\nmanner. Thus, there should be no irreversible structural change of the\nenzyme. Definitely, this report contributes to the development of personalization in\nskincare and cosmetic products....
Caesalpinia spinosa gum is a vegetal polysaccharide obtained by grinding the endosperm of\nCaesalpinia spinosa seeds. It is commonly used as a rheology modifier in food industry. Its rheological\nbehavior, compatibility with common cosmetic ingredients, and application as a thickener in\ndifferent types of cosmetic formulations were investigated in this article. At low concentrations\n(0.1-0.2%) the behavior is Newtonian; at higher percentages (0.5-2.0%) it is pseudoplastic without\nthixotropy. The gum was tested in combination with salts, chelating agents, humectants, thickeners,\npigments, nano UV filters, surfactants, conditioners, and ethanol, as well as in acidic/alkaline\nconditions. The wide compatibility and the interesting sensory profile, even in association with other\nthickeners, make the Caesalpinia spinosa gum a very promising ingredient for the thickening of various\ncosmetic products....
Cassia fistula, a flowering plant in the family of Caesalpinaceae (Fabaceae),\nis used in traditional medicine for several indications. Nevertheless, too little is known about\nits effects on skin conditions and skin aging. Therefore, in this pioneering study, the extracts\nof oil-in-water macro-emulsions containing 5% C. fistula (L.) crude pods (i.e., phyto-active\nformulation) were optimally developed and compared to the placebo (i.e., emulsions without\nthe crude extract) for assessment of their effects on human skin aging. Healthy adult male\nvolunteers (n = 13) with a mean age of 31 Ã?± 5.5 years (range: 24ââ?¬â??47 years) were enrolled\nafter informed written consent. For 12 consecutive weeks, the subjects were directed to use a\npatch containing the active emulsion on one of their forearms as well as a patch containing\nthe placebo on their other forearm. Biometrological measurements of skin hydration (SH)\nand transepidermal water loss (TEWL) were performed on both sides of their respective\ncheeks at time 0 (baseline values), 2, 4, 6, 8, 10 and 12th weeks. Surface evaluation of living\nskin (SELS) was taken at time 0 (baseline values) or after 1, 2 and 3 months. Topical\napplication of C. fistula extracts showed a significant (p < 0.05) increase in stratum corneum\nhydration level, a significant enhancement in its water-holding function as well as in its barrier\nfunction. Further, significant (p < 0.005) ameliorations of skin aspects were observed (i.e., less\nroughness, less dryness, less wrinkles). Taken together, our results strongly suggest therapeutic\nand esthetic potential of C. fistula podââ?¬â?¢s extracts to prevent or delay human skin aging....
Photoactivation and binding of photoactive chemicals to proteins is a known prerequisite for the formation of\r\nimmunogenic photoantigens and the induction of photoallergy. The intensive use of products and the availability of new\r\nchemicals, along with an increasing exposure to sun light contribute to the risk of photosensitizing adverse reactions.\r\nDendritic cells (DC) play a pivotal role in the induction of allergic contact dermatitis. Human peripheral blood monocyte\r\nderived dendritic cells (PBMDC) were thus perceived as an obvious choice for the development of a novel in vitro\r\nphotosensitization assay using the modulation of cell surface protein expression in response to photosensitizing agents. In\r\nthis new protocol, known chemicals with photosensitizing, allergenic or non-allergenic potential were pre-incubated with\r\nPBMDCs prior to UVA irradiation (1 J/cm2). Following a 48 h incubation, the expression of the cell surface molecules CD86,\r\nHLA-DR and CD83 was measured by flow cytometry. All tested photosensitizers induced a significant and dose-dependent\r\nincrease of CD86 expression after irradiation compared to non-irradiated controls. Moreover, the phototoxicity of the\r\nchemicals could also be determined. In contrast, (i) CD86 expression was not affected by the chosen irradiation conditions,\r\n(ii) increased CD86 expression induced by allergens was independent of irradiation and (iii) no PBMDC activation was\r\nobserved with the non-allergenic control. The assay proposed here for the evaluation of the photoallergenic potential of\r\nchemicals includes the assessment of their allergenic, phototoxic and toxic potential in a single and robust test system and\r\nis filling a gap in the in vitro photoallergenicity test battery....
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